9 replies to this topic

[Nichole]

Background Story:
So about two weeks ago, a friend's shed burned down, with their dogs inside. The side of the shed also served as a wall for their coop. So with their dogs gone and chickens homeless (they lost one from the fire) my dad offered to keep them with ours. My gut said NOO!!! biosecurity and all, but it was too late by the time I found out about all of this. They were moved in by the time I got home. Plus, they just had to bury their charred dogs and were extremely upset. I felt I had no choice but to be a good friend and let them stay.

So, last night I went in the coop and found one of my Buff roos dead, and a friend's banty roo dead. My roo hadn't been sick, but the banty had been sitting off on his own (I thought he was cold since he was used to having a heat lamp, so I didn't think much of it. I had been meaning to set one up for him that day)

After investigating the bodies, I couldn't find anything wrong with them. My roo was found dead under a ladder they use to perch on, and the banty was in his normal sleeping spot. So I assume they both died in their sleep.

My first thought was my friends chickens were sick and had spread it, which in theory could have been true. Most diseases have an incubation period of 10-14 days or so. But, they weren't showing any symptoms, except for the banty huddling in the coop on his own.

So far, the only thing I can find wrong is that they have worms. I have never dewormed any of my chickens for the last 15 years of owning birds. I don't regularly take apart the fecal matter and investigate, but try to note how it looks. (normal or not) This morning I went out and found a couple spots of runny poop and after online research, threadworms.

So, I guess what I'm saying is has anyone treated their birds for threadworms? From research on backyard chickens, I have found that you can treat their water for three day with fenbendazole (safeguard) and that is my plan for now. I also have ordered some food grade DE to add to their feed, and some Bragg's ACV to add to their water. (I'm thinking about trying it for myself after researching it all morning!)

Also, do you regularly treat them? I don't want to develop resistance to anything, so I think I am going to treat them with the safeguard, eliminate the worms and begin the DE and ACV on a regular basis. I'm really just curious to hear other people's way of doing things, and if this sounds like a good plan of action. Thanks guys

[CrabGrassAcres]

DE is totally ineffective against internal parasites. I wouldn't waste money on it. If they do have parasites, put 1/4 tsp of copper sulfate per gallon of water and that will take care of it. Use the vinegar with the copper to keep it in suspension. If you have iron in your water you may see some red discoloration, but this will not hurt anything. Don't use copper sulfate or vinegar with metal waterers. You don't need the chemical wormer with the copper. The copper will also take care of any other parasites including lice and I give it to the dogs to keep ticks off them. It really works. I give it to my goat herd and have zero problems with parasites of any sort.

Watch all the birds for any respiratory disease. They may have brought in CRD to your flock.

[Nichole]

I was wondering if it was effective or not after I ordered it... Oh well, it's already being shipped, I'll use it for external parasites anyway.


Where do you get the copper sulfate? Looking for it right now but I'm not sure which one is right. I'm curious about it for the dogs too!

Thanks!

Edited by Nichole, 19 November 2012 - 06:05 AM.

[CrabGrassAcres]

I buy the copper bulk online, but you probably don't need 50#. LOL Most feed stores carry it for killing algae in ponds. Put it in the dogs' water at about half the strength of the poultry. If it is too strong the dogs won't drink it. I make the dogs' food so I include the copper in their food to make sure they get it. When I forget to give it, they will get ticks really bad and sometimes hot spots as well. It protects against heart worm also.

[Mt_Rider]

Is this something you include daily ...maintenance, for the goats?

MtRider

[CrabGrassAcres]

I mix extra copper with the goats' mineral mix. About 1 tsp copper per cup of mineral. Dolomite has to be given separately since it will neutralize the copper if it gets wet and my mineral feeder is out in the open. If you can keep it dry, mix 1 cup dolomite, 1 cup goat mineral and 1 tsp copper sulfate. I do give BoSe as well on the standard schedule. If you are feeding dolomite, you don't need alfalfa, which is extremely expensive and hard to get here. You also don't have to trim hooves as often if not feeding alfalfa.

[Mt_Rider]

Hmm...we've gone from chickens to goats....sorry about the thread shift.

You give extra copper even if the goat mineral contains copper? Mine does.

If I've got alfalfa [milking does only] do I need dolomite and is that a part of worming or just needed?

MtRider [...always new knowledge here! :) ]

[CrabGrassAcres]

Commercial minerals don't have nearly enough copper for goats, which is why a lot of people bolus their goats. I've seen clinical copper deficiency in bolused goats too. Goats need a great deal more copper than most livestock, however most are copper deficient. Parasites are a symptom of copper deficiency in all animals, including humans. CAE and mad cow and CWD are all diseases of copper deficiency.

Alfalfa contains sufficient calcium most of the time but deficient in magnesium. The dolomite supplies both and helps prevent mastitis as well as calcium deficiency symptoms. You can safely give both.

[Mt_Rider]

Wanna post companies on the Internet that sell at a good price/of good reputation?

MtRider [...thanks for the data.]

[CrabGrassAcres]

I buy the dolomite 50# bags from a ceramic supply in Austin. There may be a supply place near you. That stuff is heavy to ship.

http://www.coppersul...s.com/home.html This is where I bought mine in the 50# bag. Figured I won't have to buy it again. LOL It also has ag uses tho.

Most feed stores carry copper sulfate CuS04. Make sure it is pure. Should say 20% copper. The other 80% is the sulfate part.